KETCHUM - Remember that fresh, just-picked tomato last summer, how good it tasted?

Peggy and Dale Bates can get that taste in their Ketchum kitchen all year round, from a plant that has grown to dominate the small garden bed they built between their counter and window.

Although not as easy as planting outdoors during the summer growing season, even in the heart of winter it's possible to supplement your salads and season your soups with fresh, homegrown food.

"Why not, if you're in your kitchen, eat right out of your windowsill?" Peggy said. "You're starting them from seed, so you get to experience that miracle. That's the really fun part, and then eating the food, of course."

The Bateses went further than most to get an indoor garden, installing a copper-lined bed 12 inches wide and 18 inches deep between their kitchen counter and a large set of southeast-facing windows with blinds that are lowered at night. They sweep small bits of food directly into the bed, while a compost pile outside supplies the rich soil. Watering is easy with a faucet sprayer.

"When I make crumbs, instead of brushing the crumbs off onto the floor and getting in trouble, I brush them into the soil," said Dale with a laugh.

About 13 months ago, a tomato seed must have been brushed into the bed along with the crumbs, because a plant began to grow. It hasn't quit since, and it is now more than 6 feet tall, and has produced - as of mid-December - 106 tomatoes, with two more nearly ripe. Next to the tomato plant are a dozen small sprigs of red-veined chard and a tall, branched basil.

The couple also does more traditional indoor gardening, bringing plants started in spring and summer inside when the weather cools. The ceramic pots are loaded with rosemary, Italian parsley, more basil and other herbs.

Herbs are an easy way to start indoor winter gardening, said Dick Springs of Picabo.

"They're the most forgiving," said the farmer, who with his wife, Melinda, will teach a gardening class through the College of Southern Idaho this spring. He emphasized that edibles need more care than the average houseplant.

"All your vegetables need more light than any of the houseplants," he said. A window with extra grow lights would work, or a windowbox that has glass panels above as well as in front of the plants. Windowboxes like these are available at home supply stores for installation in a standard window space, or they can be built into a home, like the Bateses did. Don't forget to pull down the blinds or otherwise insulate the glass during winter nights, or plants can freeze.

At this time of year, don't expect to start a summer plant like a pepper or tomato and have it grow well - even indoors there isn't enough light. Try those hardy herbs instead, or dark greens like chard, bok choy and spinach.

"Spinach is very nutritious, and it'll survive a lot of missteps," Springs said. "You can almost freeze it and it'll be OK."

Once you've experienced the joy of harvesting when there's snow on the ground, you'll be ready to plan for next year. You might plant your tomatoes in pots instead of beds, then bring the pots indoors when the chill hits, or start lettuce in early November to top off your Christmas salads. You could also wait until late February, then sprout your spring greens before the outdoor weather's warm enough to plant in the ground.

No matter how you do it, the Bateses and Springses are advocates of growing things - families learn about the miracle of life and food tastes better.

"To me, every student should be exposed to planting a seed, nurturing a seed, harvesting and preparing the food," Springs said. That might be a little harder in the middle of winter, but as the tomatoes growing in the Bateses' kitchen prove, it's certainly not impossible.

Learn before you get dirty Dick and Melinda Springs recommend these resources for people interested in learning more about winter gardening. • "The Winter Harvest Handbook," by Eliot Coleman. • The SPIN-Farming Web site, www.spinfarming.com. This site offers information about small-plot intensive gardening, including details on extending the growing season. • Richters Herb Specialists, www.richters.com. This Canadian company will ship herbs and seeds to the U.S., including many hardy varieties suitable for winter planting.